Capital curiosities
While traveling to London right now remains tricky, you can take a tour around some of its secret spaces from your own home. From squirreled away gardens and rambling graveyards to intriguing historic buildings and streets, we plot a route away from the well-worn paths to seek out some of the UK capital’s hidden gems.
Wanstead Park, Wanstead
Today it's full of woodland trails and lakes, but Wanstead Park was once the site of a lavish mansion that has become known as East London’s 'lost Versailles'. The Palladian mansion that occupied this pretty part of Epping Forest was especially renowned for its landscaped gardens that were among England's most celebrated and influential. It was sadly destroyed in 1824 but two original features remain – its 18th-century Temple (pictured) and the ruins of a grotto.
But Wanstead Park’s history goes much further back than that. It was originally a medieval manor, later becoming a royal hunting lodge on an estate favored by both Henry VII and his son Henry VIII. In 1553 Wanstead House was the setting of a dramatic meeting between Mary and Elizabeth Tudor, when they publicly united against the usurper Lady Jane Grey. It was turned into the grand Palladian mansion in 1715. Pictured here are the remains of its elaborate grotto, set back from the banks of Ornamental Water.
Sydenham Hill Wood, Sydenham
Tawny owls, stag beetles and hedgehogs are just a few of the woodland beasties that call this leafy enclave in southeast London home. With more than 200 species of trees and plants, Sydenham Hill Wood is one of the last and the largest remaining tracts of the old Great North Wood, a vast area of ancient woodlands and commons that once stretched from Deptford to Selhurst. Today, the pretty woodlands are managed by the London Wildlife Trust.
Within the woods, there's a footbridge (pictured) that crosses over a disused Victorian railway track built to take people from Nunhead to see the Crystal Palace. The area's upper slopes were once the large gardens of Victorian mansions – the crumbling remains of an ornamental folly are one of the reserve's most evocative spots.
Wilton’s Music Hall, Whitechapel
Hidden behind a nondescript row of terraces along a shabby backstreet in Whitechapel, lies the world's oldest surviving music hall. Built by John Wilton in 1859 to replace a concert hall at the back of an old alehouse, the grand barrel-vaulted Victorian music hall became famous. With a mission to entertain East End merchants, dock workers and sailors looking for a spot of bawdy revelry, it was an incredible space that rivaled the West End theaters with its multiple levels, winding staircases, mirrors, chandeliers and decorative paintwork.
In a strange twist of fate, Wilton’s was bought by the East London Methodist Mission in 1888 when the East End became notorious for extreme poverty. Remarkably the handsome music hall survived the Blitz intact, briefly becoming a rag warehouse after the war. Slated for demolition in the 1960s, it was thankfully given a Grade II listing in 1971. But it remained in a derelict state for many years until extensive restorations (which have retained its 19th-century charm) began in 2005, transforming it into a modern theater, rehearsal and performance space.
The pergola and Hill Garden, Hampstead
Hampstead Heath is one of London’s most beloved and beautiful open stretches of land, famed for its skyline views, swimming ponds and the stunning stately home Kenwood House. But did you know about its pergola? With its gorgeous Italianate architecture, the Grade II-listed structure and surrounding gardens can be found in the West Heath area of the sprawling heath and it's one of London’s prettiest public hideaways.
The elegant elevated walkway, with its long avenue of classical stone columns, was constructed in the early 20th century by Sir William Hesketh Lever (later Lord Leverhulme), an Edwardian soap magnate. It was the centerpiece for the private sweeping gardens of his grand Hampstead townhouse The Hill, since renamed Inverforth House. The pergola became public land and was restored and opened to the public in 1963. Now discover the UK's most beautiful towns and villages.
London Mithraeum, City of London
The ancient Roman Temple of Mithras was first discovered in 1954, in an area that was slated for redevelopment. It was rather unsuccessfully moved to a nearby car park before being restored to its original position under business company Bloomberg's European headquarters. One of the richest archaeological sites in London, the faithful reconstruction of the temple and museum is located 23 feet (7m) below the bustling city streets.
The temple was built around AD 240 on the banks of the now underground River Walbrook in honor of the mysterious cult figure Mithras the bull-slayer. A carved marble head of the handsome young god was found among the ruins in 1954, which is now on display in the Museum of London. As well as the temple itself, the space houses 600 of the 14,000 Roman artifacts uncovered on the site. The site is currently open but booking is essential.
Lambeth Palace, Lambeth
Set on the south bank of the Thames, Lambeth Palace is the official London residence and office of the Archbishop of Canterbury and has been since the Middle Ages. The archbishops used to be ferried across the river to Westminster on the opposite side. The imposing red-brick structure was built in 1490 by Cardinal John Morton and through a Tudor gatehouse called Morton’s Tower (pictured) is a complex of medieval buildings, historic staterooms and pretty gardens.
The oldest part of Lambeth Palace is the Crypt Chapel, which dates back to the 13th century. It was originally used for wine and beer storage, only becoming a chapel in the Second World War when the palace’s main chapel was destroyed. Other buildings of note are the Lambeth Palace Library, which houses the largest religious collection of books outside of the Vatican, and Lollards’ Tower. The grey stone tower was built in the 15th century and likely used for ecclesiastical prisoners.
St John’s Gate, Clerkenwell
This impressive ancient gateway is an incongruous site amid the office blocks of Clerkenwell. The historic home of the Order of St John, it was built in 1504 as the southern gatehouse to the Priory at Clerkenwell, which was founded in the 1140s. After Henry VIII's dissolution of monasteries, it had various uses including the offices of the Master of the Revels where 30 of Shakespeare’s plays were licensed.
The Priory Church (pictured) over the other side of Clerkenwell Road stands on the site of the original round church, which was built by the Knights of St John and consecrated in 1185. By the end of the 19th century, the gatehouse was used as a pub which was frequented by Charles Dickens. Today it houses the intriguing Order of St John museum which tells the story of the order's origins from 11th-century Jerusalem, through to its role today with first-aid charity St John Ambulance.
Apothecaries’ Hall, City of London
At the end of an ancient archway, tucked down Black Friars Lane in the City of London and guarded by golden unicorns, lies London’s oldest surviving livery hall. Initially, the apothecaries had been members of the Grocers’ Company as they were seen as spice-sellers, but as they accrued pharmaceutical skills, they sought to establish their own livery company. Most of the current building dates from 1672 when it had to be rebuilt after the Great Fire of London, although some parts of the original 13th-century building remain.
Still home to The Worshipful Society of Apothecaries, the building retains many of its original features. The parlor has a wall-to-wall case displaying the apothecaries’ old drug jars and pill tiles. And the magnificent Great Hall remains as it was in 1670s with its carved screen, gallery and oak floor. Underneath the Grand Hall there was an ‘Elaboratory’ which was built by the apothecaries in the 17th century for the first ever large-scale manufacture of drugs.
Roupell Street, Lambeth
Just steps away from main thoroughfare Waterloo Road lies one of London’s best-preserved historic streets. With its uniform Georgian terraces, Roupell Street is like going back in time to 19th-century London. Now a conservation area, it dates back to the 1820s when the humble two-story brick houses were built on former marsh land by gold refiner John Palmer Roupell for workers. Unsurprisingly, today the houses command a pretty price and the historic enclave has featured in numerous period dramas and films.
Nunhead Cemetery, Nunhead
The second-largest Victorian cemetery in London, Nunhead Cemetery opened in 1840. It was one of seven great cemeteries that were consecrated in a ring around the outskirts of the capital and offers an intriguing window into the era. With the ruins of its Anglican chapel and its wild overgrown corners, the vast necropolis is an eerie and arresting space. The cemetery was neglected in the mid-20th century and fell into disrepair until many of its most historic monuments were restored in the 1990s.
It still remains charmingly wild. Towering above its tangle of shrubs and memorials is an obelisk erected to commemorate the Scottish Martyrs – five political radicals who were transported to Australia in 1794 for sedition. The cemetery has some spectacular views of London's modern-day skyline and there's one bench in particular that commands a perfectly framed view of St Paul’s Cathedral through the foliage.
St Dunstan-in-the-East, City of London
First consecrated in the early 12th century, this medieval church stood until the Great Fire of London swept through the old city in 1666 and damaged large parts of it. It was restored and a replacement steeple, designed by Sir Christopher Wren, was added in 1695 to 1701. It was the Blitz that eventually did it for the age-old church. Although remarkably, Wren's tower and steeple survived the bombing of 1941 but only the north and south walls of the church remained.
Thankfully, St Dunstan-in-the-East was reborn as a heavenly little space after its bombed-out ruins were transformed into a tranquil public garden in the 1970s. Located between Tower Hill and Monument underground stations, the Grade I-listed building now stands testament to London's resilience. Discover more of the world's most wonderful gardens.
The Painted Hall, Old Royal Naval College, Greenwich
The extraordinary Old Royal Naval College in Greenwich was designed by Sir Christopher Wren and the spectacular Painted Hall is the jewel in its crown. The lavish wall and ceiling murals are the work of 18th-century artist Sir James Thornhill and include William and Mary as their centerpiece, honoring the monarchs' role as founders of the Royal Hospital.
As one of Europe's most spectacular Baroque interiors, it has been dubbed Britain’s Sistine Chapel but it certainly isn't as well-known. The hall's most significant historic occasion was when it was used for the lying-in-state of Lord Nelson in January 1806 before the navy hero was given a state funeral. Today, the exact spot where his coffin lay is marked by a plaque.
Severndroog Castle, Shooters Hill
This Gothic tower looks like something out of a fairy tale but it's actually perched on top of Shooters Hill in the Royal Borough of Greenwich. The imposing building was commissioned by Lady James of Eltham to commemorate her beloved husband Sir William James, director of the East India Company. At 432 feet (132m) above sea level, it has some of the best views in the city.
Crossness Pumping Station, Abbey Wood
A former sewage station makes for an unlikely hidden gem. But the Crossness Pumping Station is a beauty of a Victorian building and an important remnant of the Industrial Age. The now Grade I-listed building was constructed on the banks of the River Thames in southeast London by Sir Joseph Bazalgette in 1865 as part of his vast and ambitious new sewerage system. It was designed to pump sewage out to sea rather than allow it to flow into and pollute the river.
The station came about as a result of the Great Stink of 1858, when a heatwave made the stench from all the effluent in the Thames overpowering. With its ornate Victorian cast ironwork, the Beam Engine House is both architecturally magnificent and a wonder of engineering. It was shut in the 1950s and fell into disrepair but after recent meticulous restorations, the station's original 1865 buildings reopened.
Rachel Truman, Love Exploring
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